Sustainability Report: NYFW 2022
One of the key trends to emerge from the pandemic is a focus on sustainability and the fashion industry reducing its impact on the environment. As New York Fashion Week marks its return for in-person shows for the first time since February of 2020, both large and small brands were seen to incorporate sustainable practices into their collections, including the use of natural dyes, leftover fabric (otherwise known as deadstock), and eco-friendly material.
Gabriela Hearst’s eco-friendly shoes from the SS22 Collection. Photo by Flippio Fior / Gorunway.com
Hearst, recently named creative director of Chloe, is a veteran in incorporating sustainable practices into her collections. Nearly 40% of her namesake brand’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection is made from old material that hasn’t been able to sell, otherwise known as deadstock material. The Uruguayan designer used natural, botanical dyes to ensure her garments were as eco-friendly as possible. Hearst also introduced eco-friendly footwear this season, using “natural rubber and a lot of cork,” the designer explained. Footwear is notoriously difficult to produce sustainably, and Hearst is one of the few major designers push the boundaries this season. In addition to using deadstock material and introducing eco-friendly footwear, CO2 emissions from the show were carbon offset. Since 2019, Gabriela Hearst has worked with EcoAct to reduce carbon emissions from her shows by recording and reporting on power usage, transportation, catering, and waste. From there, EcoAct calculates the resulting emissions of the show, and Hearst donates to projects in Kenya to villages that have limited access to energy and are dependent on local biomass from forests.
Jason Wu
Moreover, Gabriela Hearst wasn’t the only designer to incorporate sustainable practices into her collection this season. Jason Wu unveiled his first runway show in 18 months and collaborated with Cara Marie Piazza, a fabric artist who uses natural dyes, to develop prints different from what we’ve traditionally seen from the designer. Synthetic dyes are made from toxic chemicals and have detrimental effects on both the environment and human health – including water pollution and potential respiratory issues. Using natural dyes made from plant and animal sources is safer for the environment, workers who make the clothing, and the consumers who purchase and wear said pieces.
Khaite & Peter Do
Khaite’s SS22 Collection comprised of “individual pieces” that customers can wear for a long period of time. Photo by Hanna Tveite / Courtesy of Khaite
Although there was no mention of sustainability in this season’s Khaite collection, the brand held a quiet, low-key show and unveiled versatile pieces that are less inclined from “full looks” and more in tune with creating seasonless pieces that customers could wear over a long period of time. Comparatively, Peter Do, a Celine and Derek Lam alum, is an emerging designer who launched his eponymous brand in 2018. As the designer is beginning to garner attention from Kendall Jenner and other trend-setting celebrities, he has previously mentioned that he’d produce only made-to-order wholesale clothing and limited numbers of tailored pieces. Additionally, he reuses leftover fabric for his future seasons. Small, but still well-established brands like Khaite and Peter Do that focus on creating versatile pieces and capsule collections can set a benchmark for major brands that over-produce.
Naeem Khan
Recycled and natural, organic fabrics were also a common theme amongst designers at New York Fashion Week. Indian American designer Naeem Khan hopes to “bring eco-consciousness into the world of eveningwear,” and attached a note to the program of this season’s fashion show explaining the sustainable aspects of the natural fibers used in his hemp jeans. Correspondingly, Phillip Lim featured more second-generation fabrications than he’s ever used before, including wool and recycled polyester blend.
Studio 189
Studio 189’s Spring 2022 fashion show held a ceremony commemorating the 20th anniversary of 9/11. The brand is sustainably made and supports African artisans.
What I’d call the most notable sustainably made collection of this season is Studio 189. Founded by Abrima Erwiah, a former Bottega Veneta communications executive and Hollywood actress Rosario Dawson, Studio 189 is a mission-based sustainably made label that supports African artisans and celebrates Black heritage. This year, Studio 189’s fashion show happened to fall on the 20th anniversary of 9/11. The show comprised of performances dedicated to those lost on September 11th, as well as having the audience seated in a circular formation, representing “the circularity of clothes, of each other, of our humanity” according to Erwiah. Since the brand’s conception in 2013, it’s worked with artisanal communities that specialize in various traditional craftsmanship techniques, including natural dyes, kente weaving, recycled glass beading, and more. Studio 189’s representation of art, culture, and inclusivity to commemorate a tragic moment in American history is why I believe the brand will influence social and environmental change in the fashion industry.
As Milan Fashion Week begins, it’ll be interesting to see how European brands will incorporate eco-friendly and sustainable practices within their collections. Luxury brands are notorious for over-producing and constructing large fashion shows with massive carbon footprints (flying hundreds of guests and models in, plastic bottles of water for everyone, and seats that are often discarded post-show). With the growing threat of global climate change and a growing number of consumers holding brands responsible, brands will now have to make sustainability and cutting waste a focal point for their future collections.
