How ethical is Zara’s “Join Life” Collection?
Source: The Fashion Law
Zara launched its “Join Life” line in 2016, an ongoing collection that the brand markets as its “sustainable” line. The collection comprises of trendy and contemporary designs made from sustainable materials, including recycled wool, sustainable Tencel, and organic cotton. But, is it actually ethical and sustainable? Or is this another example of greenwashing (a marketing spin brands use to persuade consumers that their products are “environmentally friendly”)?
The Material
According to Zara’s Sustainability Products Annual Report, Join Life uses the following three materials in its manufacturing:
“Ecologically grown cotton”
Tencel Lyocell
Recycled fabrics (cotton, wool, polyester)
Ecologically Grown Cotton — Zara describes this material as cotton that’s grown using natural fertilizers and pesticides, excluding the use of genetically modified seeds that are known for inhibiting biodiversity. To set these standards, the brand is working with Organic Content Standard (OCS) and the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). GOTS has a defined set of criteria on processing standards for organic fibers and conducts independent certifications of the entire textile supply chain. A brand with the GOTS certification is verified as “legit organic cotton” (for example, Everlane is verified by the GOTS as a brand that uses at least 70% certified organic natural fibers).
Tencel Lyocell — Lyocell is a commonly used fabric by a variety of brands — including Reformation, Aritzia, and now more recently Zara and H&M. Tencel fibers are natural and produced from sustainably sourced wood, often mixed with other materials including cotton, polyester, wool, and silk. In production, Tencel requires less energy and water than conventional cotton, making it a desirable and cost-effective material. While the fabric is biodegradable due to its natural, plant-derived properties, this purpose is defeated once it’s mixed with a synthetic material like polyester.
Recycled fabrics (cotton, wool, polyester) — Manufacturing new clothing from old, recycled material is the most sustainable option of the three. Zara’s Join Life collection utilizes recycled raw materials from textile waste, which in turn reduces the consumption of water, energy, and natural resources. The circular economy model is the most effective method of reducing consumption and offsetting a brand or individual’s carbon footprint.
2. The Labor
According to Zara’s Sustainability Annual Report, the brand “works with a program” to track “where and how garments are manufactured.” The brand also developed a “2019-2022 Worker at the Center” program to prioritize human and worker rights. Additionally, Inditex enforced a Code of Conduct for its manufacturers and Suppliers, which includes policies such as no forced labor, no child labor, no discrimination, traceability of production, and health and safety of products. To implement this Code of Conduct, the brand mentions that audits are performed every few months to hold suppliers accountable.
While these are great initiatives, setting standards doesn’t guarantee ethical labor for a brand. In 2021, Zara was found to have ties to Uighur labor in China and publicly made a statement that the reports on forced labor were “concerning,” a comment which has since then been deleted. The Chinese government and Chinese influencers immediately criticized Inditex for making a public statement on the Uighur crisis, threatening to boycott the brand.
Additionally, during the COVID-19 pandemic, thousands of garment workers in developing countries were laid off and never received severance pay from brands commissioning their suppliers. The Workers Rights Consortium recently conducted a report asking major brands to enforce severance pay to garment workers, estimating that retailers owe workers between half a billion to $850 billion in legally-owed severance pay during the pandemic. Of these retailers, Zara is mentioned to have ties to two shuttered factories in Myanmar and Bangladesh. A spokesperson for Zara says that Inditex cut ties with the two factories within the last few years, implying that the brand does not owe workers in the factories severance. However, according to worker interviews, the supplier worked with Inditex until more recently than the company claims.
3. Price
One tipping point about Zara’s Join Life collection that its competitors lack is the price point. Join Life offers trendy styles at an affordable price range that is an advantage over other sustainable brands. Similar to the non-sustainable products made by Zara, Join Life pieces typically range between $50-100.
4. Overall
As fast-fashion giants such as Zara and H&M regain their post-pandemic market, it’s imperative for these brands to attract young consumers driven by environmental and ethical standards. I wouldn’t go as far as saying that Join Life is an example of greenwashing since the materials are sustainably sourced, however, Zara should be more transparent in its sourcing process.
While Join Life is a good start for consumers looking to transition to sustainable fashion, it’s not good enough for a major brand that has the resources and name to make a difference in the fashion industry’s toll on the environment and set a precedent for ethical labor. Recycling material, or “upcycling,” to make new pieces is a fantastic method of reducing a brand and consumer’s carbon footprint, however, the labor involved in creating these pieces isn’t transparent enough.
